![]() I have used it in an old TR-2 since its restoration and the stuff is excellent. This is especially good with engines that are a mix of iron and aluminum parts as well as aluminum radiators. It contains no water (water is actually a contaminate) so it is not corrosive to any metal in the cooling system. Ask his agent for his rates.You guys missed another advantage to Evans coolant. He markets himself first - he's his own product, and he is for sale. He doesn't do much for free, there was either a fee or he's a stakeholder. We get a lot more folks convinced the fractional hp benefits of an electric pump offer more.Īs for Jay, well, it's an infomercial. The potential market for that is apparently not that good. If running the system with water produces so much corrosion that water pumps are endangered, we'd have a market for stainless pumps and polymer vanes. What I see is another product being marketed because it can sell - not because you need it, or that it even offers much in the way of an advantage. No coolant can fix the problem if the system is screwed up. Those are usually mistakes with no shroud, fans rated at too low a CFM rate, underdrive pulleys, a water pump with too high a volume flow, insufficient dwell time in the block to pick up heat, or lose it in the radiator. If the system can't keep the engine appropriately cooled on a weekend trip at normal road speeds limited by law, you have other serious issues. The problem corrects itself - if it even gets hot enough to boil. The more that is released, the higher the boiling point. In this case, simply let the steam escape. I have to ask - why not? What better way is there to get water out? It's exactly the process distillers use, flash off the lower boiling point and recover it. The difficulty in not allowing any water to remain in the jackets is basically to prevent it mixing in the system and reducing the boiling temp, which would then flash off as steam. It's like the valve testing on the 427 - you dyno them until they can't fail in a 24 hour cycle, not hope for the best. You don't win races on the edge of potential failure, you win by having an acceptable margin of strength. ![]() ![]() That isn't good racing practice - being on the ragged edge really means you step over constantly, but back off just before failure. If you need to run the engine so close to the limit on heat exchange, consider that it's really running at the limit of physical capability with no room for error. And as the conversation linked on the other site, plenty of endurance racers at Le Mans, including the Cobras, Daytonas, GT 40's, Mk 4's, ad infinitum don't have issues with it. That means if it's a street car idling around a lot, you DON'T put underdrive pulleys on it to "gain" a few horsepower that only exists at high rpm. The overheating issue is concerned about steam pockets in the head, which is directly related to having the correct flow rates matched to the typical rpm the vehicle is used. Add some preventative maintenance with coolant changes and additives, the wear and tear is reduced. Guys, plenty of cars go ten years with factory hoses and clamps before failure. No pressure in the system? We're talking 16 pounds, which only affects the hose joints and cooling system. I have always used a can or two of water pump lube and corrosion inhibitor in my street and race cars.Ĭooling System Water Pump Lube with Anti-Rust (p/n 1311) | Products | Bar's Leaks & Rislone - Premium Automotive ChemicalsĪs for running pure antifreeze, you can do that mixing the two kinds in the appropriate ratio. If you use a high pressure cap in the 20# range the boiling point of the coolant is raised quite a bit and proper hoses and gaskets should work fine and not leak. SCCA and as far as I know, NASA allow antifreeze but most circle track organizations don't allow it because it is so slick when it gets on the track. Thats a lot less than the temperature of the engine headers.Īlso If you ever get an engine leak and pure glycol gets under your tires, you will think your tires have been replaced by ball bearings. I did look up the MSDS for PG and sure enough it will self ignite at about 699 degrees F. You can get both EG and PG and mix it yourself. Their MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) states that it is 70% Ethylene Glycol and 30% Propylene Glycol with "Proprietary" corrosion inhibitors which are present in standard antifreeze brands available for about 15 bucks a gallon at your local auto parts store.
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